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Artur Kayukov Makes Superb Portraits With out Any Photoshop

“You possibly can say I’m going strictly by the definition of the phrase Pictures,” says Artur Kayukov about his ability set behind the digicam and his reluctance to post-process. Not somebody who likes to spend hours enhancing at his PC, he finds a sure allure in unedited pictures. Believing magnificence is flawed and asymmetry is what makes us distinctive, he tells me what made him begin a ‘No Photoshop’ portrait collection and why he embraces this ideology extra today.

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The subject of whether or not to post-process your pictures or not is closely polarizing. I don’t choose a photographer’s expertise primarily based on whether or not they can produce a superb picture with out enhancing. We decide up post-processing expertise over time and with quite a lot of trial and error. Nevertheless it’s fallacious to anticipate good footage to at all times have some post-processing behind them. Many gifted photographers can and have made wonderful pictures with out Photoshop. We’ve carried out a number of items on this, and we love shining a highlight on individuals who could make stunners fully in-camera. These days, the expertise in cameras permits us to do much more with out loading up our information in our enhancing software program of alternative. I wouldn’t say post-processing is an additional chore, however I take pleasure in pictures when it’s minimized or avoidable. Artur goals to provide a few of his greatest work with out sitting behind his laptop. He’s out to alter the idea {that a} improbable photograph can solely be achieved with Photoshop utilization. And on this detailed interview with us, he narrates his causes for doing so.

The Important Pictures Gear Utilized by Artur Kayukov

Artur informed us:

As you possibly can see, for portrait taking pictures within the studio, you don’t want to have tremendous costly gear, all of the magic occurs within the studio itself.

The Phoblographer: Hello Artur. Please inform us about your self and the way you bought into pictures.

Artur Kayukov: Good day. To begin with, I wish to thanks on your work; for what you’re doing is difficult work, and it’s noble. You unite folks, assist trade experiences and opinions, present totally different philosophies, totally different approaches, totally different types, and totally different instructions. This is essential; it means that you can increase the boundaries; somebody can get impressed or make one thing for themselves. Thanks once more for doing this; it is vitally necessary.

I shall be comfortable to reply your questions; I’ll attempt to inform you about my philosophy and the strategies that I adhere to after I take a brand new image, let’s get began. I’m a foul storyteller, however I’ll strive.

A few of my pals name me a “grasp of sunshine and shadow.” I don’t think about myself a grasp; I’m nonetheless removed from such a excessive standing. However I preferred how my pals referred to as me; this hides the essence of what I do and what I attempt for. I even took a selfie on my cellphone in a low-key. I apologize for the standard of the image; I’ve a 0.3Mp digicam on my cellphone. I do minimalistic portraits and a bit of nude pictures. I attempt to seize what I need to present the viewer with the sunshine and conceal within the shadows what I might not like to indicate.  Then nothing distracts my viewer from the primary factor, from the individual within the body, and the viewer sees solely what I wished to indicate him.

That’s why I preferred the best way my pals referred to as me. These are fairly correct phrases. I attempt to play with gentle and shadow, spotlight one thing, conceal one thing. You possibly can say I’m going strictly by the definition of the phrase “Pictures.” I hope everybody remembers that in Greek, “Pictures” interprets as “phos, photographs” – gentle and “grapho” – I write. Pictures is a light-weight portray, and that is precisely what I attempt for, what I attempt to do. That is what I love to do, however I’m removed from the “grasp of sunshine and shadow,” however I’m grateful to my pals for such phrases.

If we discuss how I got here to this, then every part is easy. I as soon as took some rattling dangerous photographs. These had been necessary photographs for me, however they had been spoiled and dangerous. Nevertheless it was attainable to repair every part simply, counsel how greatest to stand up, the place to show, modify the situation in house, set the temper with a pose, and help with accents.

At that second, I regarded round me and noticed that many individuals with cameras deal with their work as a type of craft, utilizing the scenario, the second, the significance of the occasion, or simply the necessity for an individual in pictures. They only repair the image, not being attentive to the small print, callously, like a automotive urgent the digicam button.

At that second, I wished to alter one thing, no less than for myself, amongst my environment. I wished to discover ways to take advantage of odd, easy, however pleasing to the attention photographs in order that it could be nice to have a look at the hero of the body. To attempt to take advantage of odd individual, who had by no means been photographed earlier than, look harmonious.

And after I plunged into the world of pictures, I used to be glad at what number of photographers on this planet and round me who had been attempting had been nervous about their outcomes. Apparently then, a few years in the past, I used to be simply unfortunate with a photographer who took photographs of me, nevertheless it was because of him that I acquired to know quite a lot of good, artistic, and gifted folks.

The Phoblographer: What varieties of digicam gear do you employ on your work?

Artur Kayukov: I take advantage of a Nikon D750 along side AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G and AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G lenses. That is probably the most optimum set that covers virtually all wants and at an reasonably priced value.

The Nikon D750 digicam was introduced again in 2014. It doesn’t have every part that may be present in trendy cameras: autofocus on the eyes, matrix stabilization, improved bayonet that means that you can use higher optics, high-quality 4k video recording, improved processing algorithms, noise discount, exorbitant ISO working values, and so forth. However the Nikon D750 reveals itself completely in studio pictures, has a superb dynamic vary, a superb matrix, shadows stretch effectively, and in the present day this digicam copes with its job 100%. For me, selecting a digicam was the best step since I already knew that I might be photographing folks within the studio, so I went to the DXOMARK web site. I checked out which cameras have one of the best sensor for taking portraits and their value. The Nikon D750 digicam at the moment turned out to be the best choice, and in the present day it fully fits me. I wish to observe that for studio pictures with pulsed gentle, the traits of the digicam are not as necessary as, for instance, in a reportage, live performance taking pictures. For those who plan to take photographs solely within the studio, it can save you a good amount of cash on shopping for a digicam by taking a less complicated digicam as a result of taking pictures within the studio takes place slowly, in ultimate situations for the digicam. The studio doesn’t want fancy sensors and algorithms for autofocus, sensors which are in a position to produce high-quality outcomes at excessive ISO, sensor stabilization, a big buffer for storing pictures, and quick processors for serial pictures, and that is simply the costliest factor within the digicam. Sure, in fact, there shall be variations, however they won’t be important, and lots of is not going to discover the distinction in any respect. However with lenses, every part is extra difficult. For every job, for every model, its personal lens, fixes are handy for somebody, zooms for somebody, macro for somebody. Somebody likes to take photographs at a wide-angle, somebody quite the opposite; every part may be very particular person right here. I settled on the AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G lens, a light-weight, low-cost and good lens with good distinction and good element. Generally for a feminine portrait, such element is even extreme, photosensitive. On the similar time, this focal size forgives some errors when composing the body, so it’s straightforward to work with this lens. It’s like a greatest good friend; it should assist should you did one thing fallacious, doesn’t act up and doesn’t inform you off, doesn’t introduce sturdy distortions into the geometry. For its value, that is in all probability among the best lenses.

However I don’t just like the AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G lens, perhaps I simply acquired a foul copy, nevertheless it makes a foul image. The image is boring, with low element, as much as f2.2 sturdy chromatic aberrations. I take advantage of it as a backup lens if I don’t have sufficient house within the studio or I need to rejuvenate the mannequin and introduce a bit of distortion. That’s all my package, which I take with me after I go to the photograph studio. Generally a laptop computer is added to this record if it’s some type of difficult taking pictures, the place the sunshine is difficult after I want to right away see a large-size photograph with full colour protection, distinction, and brightness, as a way to assess how effectively every part was arrange. Or if I want to offer the footage instantly after taking pictures.

The studio is our workshop, the place we will already create, create our personal photographs, and paint with gentle, and the ultimate end result will depend upon how the studio is provided and how much gear there may be. Subsequently, the selection of a studio must be approached fastidiously. Not each studio will allow you to get what you need. Every studio has its execs and cons.  Earlier than selecting the studio you’ll go to, you must have a transparent image in your head of what you need to get and, what you want for this, what gear you have to.

All the pieces issues right here, from which gentle sources are offered within the studio, their traits, what number of sources, which light-forming nozzles are offered, whether or not there are reflectors (what they’re in colour, measurement, form), whether or not there are limiters for gentle, extra racks for suspensions, mounts, photophones and so forth. This record could be continued for a very long time, even while you don’t know what you may want within the subsequent shoot.

However regardless of how great a contemporary digicam is, it’s only a software within the fingers of a grasp.

The Phoblographer: “No Photoshop” – a self explanatory title, however inform us what prompted a collection of photographs with this because the theme?

Artur Kayukov: My laziness prompted me. I’m a really lazy individual; I’m too lazy to sit down on the laptop for a number of hours to course of a photograph, I wish to sleep at night time, and photoshop takes quite a lot of time.  

However critically talking, I used to be motivated by my love for frames that weren’t processed in Photoshop. Such photographs have a novel allure; you need to have a look at them, you imagine them, belief them, they’re distinctive, they really feel life, a second, such photographs are far more stunning, livelier, richer in notion, which cannot be mentioned concerning the cleaned footage in Photoshop, and most significantly, in such frames, now we have a residing individual, not a doll or a model, however an individual.

Right here’s an instance for you:

If I processed these photographs in Photoshop, cleaned the pores and skin, and eliminated the hair, then this could have a unfavourable impact on the image. The viewer would cease believing the body, and the cleaned pores and skin and face would trigger questions and indignation; these flaws added drama.

Magnificence is flawed. Take a photograph of an individual, divide the body in half, choose the half of the body the place you suppose probably the most enticing face is, copy this half of the photograph, mirror the picture horizontally and mix the 2 obtained halves to make a single entire. In principle, you must get a portrait with out a flaw, the place we took solely the attractive half of the face, however such a photograph will repel you. The individual is not going to be pure to you, and you’ll by no means name such an individual stunning; it is a scientifically undeniable fact. That’s, we will say that we think about an individual stunning, he’s visually pleasing to us simply as a consequence of these very small flaws, asymmetries that we generally don’t even discover. Asymmetry, not ideality, is strictly what makes us all stunning and distinctive.

The collection “with out Photoshop” really turned out by chance.  The photographs amassed, and over time I started to overlook which photographs had been corrected in Photoshop and which weren’t. Subsequently, I began making a signature “with out Photoshop” this was carried out primarily for myself in order that I might not overlook that this or that image was not processed in Photoshop.

For instance, I forgot about this image, whether or not Photoshop was used right here or not.

Since there may be make-up right here, and I don’t suppose I did pores and skin cleaning right here, there may be actually quite a lot of make-up right here, and I don’t know what else may very well be carried out right here. It’s fairly attainable that this image is actually with out Photoshop; I truthfully forgot. And when there have been an increasing number of such circumstances, I made a decision that it was essential to make a signature.

The second issue was that now quite a lot of ladies use masks, and filters in photographs, to rejuvenate themselves and alter their proportions. It has come to the purpose that many already imagine {that a} good body is obtained solely because of Photoshop. Typically such photographs even look low-cost and synthetic.  With my photographs with out Photoshop, I present fashions and their pals and their family members how they’ll look good and rework with out utilizing Photoshop. And such a metamorphosis is far more spectacular than a masks or plugin.

The third issue is the expediency of the motion. There are conditions when it merely is not sensible to course of a photograph in Photoshop when every part is okay with out it, or the labor prices shall be unjustified.

Take a look at this body:

It was sufficient simply to cover the leg in order that the viewer couldn’t see that there was no nail there. A matter of seconds, and there’s no have to course of the photograph in Photoshop.

The Phoblographer: Are you not a fan of enhancing pictures? Or is enhancing pictures a obligatory evil?

Artur Kayukov: It depends upon what you imply by enhancing. Modifying at all times goes on, even should you shoot in JPEG format; simply on this case, the RAW file was edited for you by the producer of your digicam, in line with the algorithm specified within the digicam profile. There are circumstances when that is sufficient. To place it merely and really conditionally, we will say that the RAW format wherein you shoot is your “digital movie,” your digital fingerprint. This print, in addition to the movie, have to be developed, identical to within the days of photographic movies. Provided that earlier you may change the tones, distinction, colour, saturation by selecting one or one other photographic movie, now, you do it in Lightroom / Photoshop. Nonetheless, the logic of improvement stays the identical. Take a look at the designations of the instruments in Lightroom/Photoshop; for instance, the lighting software is a hand-folded into the letter “O” beforehand, when printing on this method, they blocked the photograph paper from extra gentle, leaving a small house for gentle to regionally lighten the chosen space within the photograph. And vice versa, a black die, an instrument dimmer, they block a sure space of the photograph in order that much less gentle falls on it. For those who look intently, you’ll discover many extra references to the instances of movie images.

Subsequently, I might not say that I’m an opponent of processing as a result of no less than the RAW file must be developed. However once more, all of it depends upon the scenario. In case you are doing a reportage, protecting an occasion, then the editor ought to have photographs instantly after you made them; in any other case, the writer shall be late with the information, which implies there shall be no quotation, protection; the writer merely won’t be able to be the first supply, with all the results. However I’m undoubtedly towards it when processing in Photoshop involves the fore in pictures when to start with, you see not a photograph however Photoshop. And as apply reveals, usually such processing appears disgusting and never pure. Or, when utilizing Photoshop, they attempt to repair a badly taken image.

I might advocate those that are simply beginning to take footage to surrender Photoshop. Attempt to make a superb body without delay, and there aren’t so many elements of a superb body. How effectively the photograph will prove in 50% of circumstances depends upon how you will have ready, selected the mannequin, what she is going to do sooner or later photograph, what garments shall be, what location, and whether or not she is going to convey some concept to the viewer with the assistance of pictures. A 40% good shot will depend upon the way you labored on the set, the way you interacted with the mannequin, and the surroundings. As you possibly can see, the share of Photoshop is just not so nice. The time you spend attending to know Photoshop is best spent on making ready for pictures, finding out pictures and strategies. And a well-made photograph doesn’t want Photoshop, and should you nonetheless have to make use of Photoshop, then these is not going to be vital particulars that won’t require quite a lot of time and quite a lot of data from you. Do not forget that any motion in Photoshop removes individuality, naturalness, and life and makes the image extra synthetic and fewer truthful. If you wish to go away life, reality, and naturalness in your photograph, it’s essential to both abandon Photoshop or reduce its affect.

The Phoblographer: We’re sturdy proponents for minimising the time spent on photographs within the laptop too. Do you suppose digital cameras today make it simpler to shoot nice photographs in-camera?

Artur Kayukov: Sure, in fact it’s. Trendy cameras can shoot at excessive ISO values, have beautiful autofocus on the eyes, sensor stabilization, and quick serial taking pictures. As well as, trendy cameras will present you the ultimate picture even earlier than you press the button. And the built-in algorithms, and quick and highly effective processors will will let you get good colours and distinction by default. The screens of contemporary cameras have higher distinction, colour replica, and a bigger variety of pixels, so they’re extra informative.  With a contemporary digicam, you possibly can suppose extra about creativity about pictures, and pay extra consideration to some little issues, the taking pictures course of, and the development of the image. As a substitute of focusing your consideration on some technical factors, you’ll have much less marriage in photographs associated to the technical traits of the digicam. However regardless of how great a contemporary digicam is, it’s only a software within the fingers of a grasp.

The Phoblographer: What are some strategies you utilise to create an ideal picture with out Photoshop?

Artur Kayukov: The reply to this query I wish to begin with an Arabic parable, which would be the reply to your query.

“In historical instances, there was a lame king in one of many kingdoms, who was additionally blind in a single eye broken in childhood. Sooner or later, this king gathered all of the artists of his kingdom and ordered them to attract a full-length portrait of him with out flaws. All of the artists started to attract, however none of them might draw the king with out flaws. They apologized to the king for drawing his flaws and defined to the king about their helplessness, weak spot, and lack of ability to think about how he would look with out flaws. All of the artists mentioned with one voice, how will they depict a king with two eyes when he has just one eye? How can he be depicted with two wholesome legs when he’s a lame Yemeni?

However within the midst of this collective rejection, there was one artist who painted brilliant and delightful work. He was accused of madness as a result of he might draw one thing that was not attainable. The king ordered this artist to be delivered to him, and when the artist got here to the king, the king mentioned to him: “Draw a stupendous brilliant image on which I shall be with out flaws.”

And the artist painted a brilliant and delightful image the place the king appeared within the type of a warrior, accompanied by a dragon. The king holds a bow in his fingers and pulls the string, squinting his broken eye, and he drew his leg, which was shorter, bent, thereby hiding this flaw of the king.”

The technical part is just not so necessary. An important factor is preparation. When making ready, I look by the photographs of the mannequin on her social pages, see what difficulties might come up, what I want to concentrate to, have a look at the wardrobe, and what can be utilized to resolve a specific downside.  This stage means that you can resolve the best variety of difficulties.

The second is the interplay with the mannequin. Not all fashions know the best way to pose; many come for the primary time, the mannequin doesn’t see herself from the surface, so the mannequin at all times must be corrected, guided, proven what you need from her, suggested, proven what occurs. I strive to concentrate to each element, bend, have a look at what I like, search for what I don’t like, and if I discover it, I attempt to repair it. Virtually every part could be corrected by posing, hand place, physique rotation, head place, foreshortening, and framing.

And the third is gentle. It’s because of the sunshine that we see. It’s he who helps to repair the image. It’s with him that we draw. With the assistance of the account, we resolve what to spotlight and present, what to go away at nighttime and conceal from the viewer. With the assistance of sunshine, we will soften the feel of the pores and skin or, conversely, emphasize it. The cleaner the sunshine that you simply use, the higher you set it up, the less necessities there shall be on your digicam and lens, the higher the colours shall be, the broader the tone vary and extra quantity. Because of this you’ll have to spend much less time processing photographs. The digicam sensor is your canvas, your thoughts, your future portray, and the sunshine is your brush with which you’ll paint your image.

For instance, have a look at this photograph:

There isn’t any make-up or styling. The hair has no quantity on the roots. We simply wanted to throw the hair from the again to the highest of the top and add quantity with our fingers. We labored with the sting of the sunshine in order that the hand positioned nearer to the supply didn’t interrupt the brightness; with the opposite hand, we balanced the image. And we took the taking pictures level a bit of greater to seize the cleavage space. Simply a few actions, and we acquired a superb image with out Photoshop. By the best way, this body within the bnw model was despatched to a contest and entered among the many 300 greatest photographs out of greater than 25,000 photographs.

The Phoblographer: Are you able to share a few of your favorite lighting setups to get improbable photographs with out having to edit them? Lighting apart, what are another suggestions photographers can use for this?

Artur Kayukov: Sure, in fact. In case you are simply beginning to take photographs and also you wouldn’t have the chance to hire a photograph studio, then take your photograph from the window. You’re going to get a beautiful, smooth gentle, with good filling, balanced. This gentle is effectively suited to a feminine portrait; it should make the feel of the pores and skin softer. The chiaroscuro sample shall be clean, with out sharp transitions from gentle to shadow, which implies your mannequin could have freedom in motion; such gentle forgives loads. As well as, when you’ve got a high-power lens, you can also make a really small depth of area in your image, so that you wouldn’t have to retouch the feel of the pores and skin. The primary situation shall be that the window doesn’t get direct daylight.

Method the window as shut as attainable and switch your again to the window. Place the mannequin in entrance of you, however not far-off. On this case, the face of the mannequin shall be evenly illuminated, you’ll preserve the distinction, and the room, whether it is giant, shall be in shadow.

If you wish to make the face extra voluminous, ask the mannequin to face on the very fringe of the window, shoulder to the window, and your self sit on the different fringe of the window. Then one half of the mannequin’s face shall be illuminated extra, and there shall be a extra expressive chiaroscuro sample. As a result of the truth that the sunshine is smooth, it is not going to critically have an effect on the feel of the pores and skin. For those who suppose that the second half of the face is simply too darkish, then ask the mannequin to show to face the window or use a white sheet of paper as a reflector.

In case you are on the road, then search for analogues of home windows, doorways, bridges, and different buildings that can will let you get directional gentle.

Take a look at this photograph; it was taken on a sunny day:

We discovered an arch that faces the other facet from the Solar. This made it attainable to make a smooth portrait and keep away from the panda impact, when shadows beneath the eyes might seem when taking pictures on a sunny day. 

When taking pictures within the studio, I might advocate utilizing softboxes of the most important measurement, and ideally an octobox (often they’re very giant), which shall be out there within the studio.

An instance of a photograph the place an octobox was used and was positioned on the facet of the mannequin, the mannequin was on the fringe of the octobox. Analog of taking pictures on the window

Think about that that is your window, solely that is an adjustable window to which you’ll set the path, rotation, and tilt. Solely there are often fewer home windows, so they may give a harsher gentle, and the shadows shall be sharper and extra distinct. Subsequently, in studio taking pictures, you’ll have to observe them intently; the pilot gentle from the flashes will assist you to. As an introduction to studio gear, I might advocate placing the supply 2.5 meters in entrance of the mannequin, tilting the supply 45 levels down, and elevating the peak barely above the mannequin. Be guided by the glare from the sunshine sources within the eyes of the mannequin. They need to be barely greater than the pupils, so you’ll perceive at an acceptable top the sunshine supply is positioned or it must be raised or lowered. Take some photographs. See if the shadows appear deep to you; use reflectors by putting them in entrance of the mannequin. And don’t forget to take a step to the left/proper; do not forget that we don’t see falling however mirrored gentle. By shifting the taking pictures level to the left or proper, down or up, you will notice the variations. This shall be sufficient to get acquainted with the studio. After which solely experiments, exams, searches.

Modifying at all times goes on, even should you shoot in JPEG format, simply on this case, the RAW file was edited for you by the producer of your digicam

The Phoblographer: Who’re a few of your favorite portrait photographers that you simply’re impressed by?

Artur Kayukov: Positively Peter Lindbergh. His phrases “Magnificence is the braveness to be your self,” in addition to the best way he turned the world the wrong way up and dropped the style for Photoshop, are admirable. He has great works.

Annie Leibovitz – and her composition within the body, braveness, may be very stunning.

Sergei Sarakhanov is a portrait photographer who shoots primarily on movie and likewise doesn’t use Photoshop. Makes great, cinematic footage.

These photographers encourage me very a lot. And in addition many others that I meet when viewing Instagram, however I can’t identify their names immediately. I save all of them in a bookmark and evaluation them within the evenings, thus growing quite a lot of viewing. Being seen can also be an necessary ability; encompass your self with good photographs, often evaluation the masters of portray their collections of photographs that you simply preferred, and delete what you weren’t excited about or what you not like. So you’ll develop style and imaginative and prescient.

The Phoblographer: With Synthetic Intelligence in software program having the ability to manipulate folks’s faces in such a sensible method today, do you suppose Photoshop has misplaced the unique beliefs upon which it was based?

Artur Kayukov: For the time being, no, I don’t suppose synthetic intelligence will throw Photoshop into the background. Photoshop has in depth picture enhancing capabilities. Sure, to take away pimples, blur the background, make the colours stunning, juicy, make a contrasting image, a neural community can. Now telephones do it very effectively. However, Photoshop is just not for that.

Photoshop is used to emphasise the inventive part; to position accents, it’s attainable to strengthen them or steadiness them. The neural community is just not ready to do that as a result of synthetic intelligence can not get into your head and see the image that you’ve deliberate. Pores and skin cleaning and determine correction this isn’t the primary and never the primary goal of Photoshop.

The Phoblographer: It have to be extremely tempting to make use of Photoshop at instances. What are some sorts of pictures you’re taking the place you discover the necessity to do that?

Artur Kayukov: The truth is, it’s not very tempting; about 1 hour of time is spent on 1 photograph if there are not any critical issues within the image, however it may well take greater than 3 hours. I don’t need to sit in Photoshop and spend a lot time on 1 photograph, and I don’t love to do it. However in fact, I’ve to do that if the photograph is distributed to a contest or if the mannequin asks me to alter one thing, however often, it comes right down to cleansing the pores and skin from momentary phenomena. Though somebody asks to rejuvenate. However I actually don’t like doing this.

The Phoblographer: Have your ’No Photoshop’ pictures impressed a few of your pals to do the identical too?

Artur Kayukov: I noticed a number of photographers attempting to repeat and do the identical. I’ve a optimistic perspective to this since I fairly often take this or that image as a basis for constructing my picture. However I don’t suppose they had been influenced by the truth that they had been with out Photoshop.

There are lots of people in my surroundings who use Photoshop; I don’t blame them, particularly since all of them attempt to reduce their actions. And it’s price noting that if a newbie in pictures seems, he’s forbidden to make use of Photoshop at first.

All pictures by Artur Kayukov. Used with permission. Try his Instagram and Flickr pages to see extra of his work

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